A Jewel in Hell's Kitchen

Turkish cuisine is largely the heritage of Ottoman cuisine, which can be described as a combination of Central Asian, Middle Eastern and Balkan cuisines. The Ottomans fused various culinary traditions of their realm with influences from Middle Eastern cuisines, along with traditional Turkic elements from Central Asia (such as yogurt), creating a vast array of specialties and many with strong regional associations.

In researching Turkish cooking, I found one common denominator - the beauty in the simplicity of their basic cooking techniques. The food is not veiled under heavy sauces or covered by the overuse of herbs or spices…and in the taste the main ingredient comes to the forefront and the other flavorings is a 'hint' in the background. Of the spices, lemony sumac, pepper, allspice, cinnamon and paprika powder are the most common. A favorite garnish is a drizzle of melted butter with a little paprika and perhaps a dash or two of cayenne. Onions play an important role in the dishes. Garlic, currants, tomatoes or even yoghurt add another dimension to flavoring possibilities.

The Turks of historical times led a nomadic life, dependent on agriculture and on the breeding of domestic animals. So, to dine on Turkish food is to dine on centuries old recipes. Ancient Greeks introduced wine cultivation in Anatolia, eastern Turkey. The Persians introduced sweets, sugar, and rice. Skewered and roasted meats, the famous shis-kebab, show the nomadic heritage; as do flatbreads which are baked upon an overturned griddle called a sac. The sac is similar to a flattened wok. "Yogurt" is a Turkish word, her most famous contribution to world cuisine. Yogurt made its way north to Bulgaria and Eastern Europe during the Ottoman occupation. Olive oil production is thousands of years old and part of the whole Mediterranean culture.

In Topkapi, the sultan's palace in Istanbul, chefs perfected these dishes with specialized recipes. Chefs would spend whole careers refining recipes such as pilafs, milk puddings, and desserts. Certain villages were known for producing chefs who would work in the palace. As a result of this imperial cuisine, the general population had a raised expectation and appreciation for excellent food. This appreciation still continues today. Though there is no singular food or method that can be instantly identified with Turkish food as in 'pasta' with Italy and 'sauces' with France, it is interesting to note that typically meat in small quantities is cooked with vegetables for flavor as well.

Turkish Cuisine is definitely a Jewel in New York City’s Hell’s Kitchen. It’s a charming and cozy little place with great quality food, and many have enjoyed pre and post theater dining here for generations. The décor is colorful; there are many kitschy trinkets that adorn the walls, colorful table cloths to the point of too colorful but in a way add to the ambience - which is friendly, inviting and relaxed. The service is great, a very friendly staff eager to explain the menu and tell you of their nightly specials. Order the spicy hummus and falafel (the BEST I've ever had - crunchy on the outside & creamy in the middle) – it is TOP notch. The warm flat bread is amazing. Try their appetizer platter. Their lamb and chicken entrees are always consistent – tender and spiced to perfection; the combo grill is my favorite. Don't miss out on the desserts, they are not on the menu, but the servers will bring you a tray of choices to choose from (the Baklava is so good here).

Turkish Cuisine
631 9th Ave Frnt
New York, NY 10036
(212) 397-9650
http://www.turkishcuisinenyc.com/

"Pho"gettaboudit

The food at Thái Son is unequivocally excellent. This very affordable Vietnamese restaurant is somewhat tucked away from the hustling and bustling crowds of Canal Street. There are other Vietnamese restaurants in Little Italy and Chinatown, but this one is my pick for the best Pho (pronounced "fuh"). There is always a crowd here, even midday. You will love the food and keep coming back for more... “fuh”gettaboudit!

In Vietnam, the day starts pretty early, before their morning exercises, and work day – people opt for pho. Pho is a noodle soup, a breakfast soup, but can be eaten at anytime. As the national soup of Vietnam, Pho was born in the North, and consists of both influences of the Chinese (rice noodles and spices) and the French (popularity of red meat). The Vietnamese used these and their native influences to make pho their own. It worked its way South in the mid 1950’s when North and South were still divided. South Vietnam adapted the dish and made it their own. Northern style pho is very simple with less meat, where as the Southern style pho is more complex and contains an abundance of ingredients - this is the version that made its way to America in the 1970’s. People believe that pho was derived from “pot au feu” a French beef stew. In general the cuisine is filled with Chinese, French, Malaysian and Indian influences.

The foundation to this noodle soup is the broth which bubbles away for hours. It includes beef soup bones, onions, ginger, star anise, cloves, cinnamon stick, cardamom, fish sauce, rock sugar. When the order comes in, a bowl is filled with heated rice noodles, cooked beef slices and then slices of raw beef, topped with basil/coriander, onion – when the broth is ladled over top; it magically releases the fragrance of the herbs and quickly turns the raw beef to rare. Other items added to enhance the enjoyment of this hearty soup are bean sprouts, basil/mint and lime wedges. One can season the broth to your liking with red chili for heat and color, fish sauce to round off the flavor of the broth and finally a generous squeeze of lime. All you need is a set of chopsticks and a Chinese style spoon – then you can begin to slurp away…by the way – slurping is totally acceptable!

On my regular visits here with friends, we always order Goi Cuon and Cha Gio to start:

Goi Cuon translates to mixed salad roll – they are rice paper filled lettuce, carrots, mint scallions, rice vermicelli, pork and shrimp – and are served cold with a dipping sauce called nuoc leo. Nuoc leo is light peanut sauce made with chili, garlic, hoisin sauce, sugar, peanuts, tamarind water or chicken stock.

These are also known as Summer Rolls, and are a great light meal or in our case - a great appetizer...

Cha Gio are spring rolls wrapped in rice paper, deep fried until crispyand golden brown. The filling consists of ground meat, mushrooms, carrots, jicama and served lettuce, mint leaves, and a dipping sauce called nuoc cham. Nuoc cham is a dipping sauce made with garlic, red pepper flakes, fresh lime juice, sugar and fish sauce. The best way to eat cha gio is to wrap them in the lettuce leaf, this prevents you from cutting the roof of your mouth. You will come across different variations offered as a filling for cha gio, and that is the beauty of it.

The dipping sauces are used interchangeably and eaten with everything. Nothing is etched in stone, there is no right way or wrong way of enjoying these really delicious dishes at Thái Son!

Thái Son
89 Baxter Street
New York, NY 10013
(212) 732-2822

How to Eat Soup Dumplings ...

There is certain rawness, and an “it is what it is” attitude in Chinatown. Its crowded streets are strewn with produce and seafood markets buzzing with client. Street vendors are practically at every turn of a corner with an assortment of unknown fruits and vegetables at ridiculously low prices. There are numerous local restaurants hanging whole boiled chickens, crispy ducks, roasted pig and other barbequed items in their windows for sale. Chinese markets with boxes spilling onto the sidewalk with dried delicacies such as mushrooms, shrimps and oysters. Many street peddlers whispering Gucci, Louis, and Prada as you pass in trying to sell you a knock-off. These are just some of the local elements of Chinatown…but tucked away in the heart of Chinatown is Joe's Shanghai. This bustling restaurant is always crowded!

Shanghai has a huge array, but few dishes to call its own. Like any city with significant access to other areas, they have absorbed foods and cooking styles of the entire country. There are specialties for sure, but not that many. Some favorites are Lion’s Head Casserole, Drunken Chicken or Drunken Shrimp, Salt Cured Chicken, and Preserved Mustard Green, Winter Melon Soup, Fish Head Casserole and cold appetizer dishes such as Jelly Fish, Braised Sliced Beef, and Aromatic Cold Fish. You will find many types cold appetizers, casseroles and braised dishes on the menu at Joe’s Shanghai. The Shanghainese enjoy many of their foods slow-cooked in soy sauce; and they call this preparation style red-cooking. They also adore steamed dumplings called Soup Dumplings, and this is why I have been going to Joe’s for years.

Joe’s Shanghai in my opinion is known best for their soup dumplings, xiao long bao. I think the staff would be shocked if you didn't start with these with your meal.

They offer two variations, crab and pork meat or just pork. They arrive in a hot bamboo steamer, all 8 juicy beauties resting on top of Chinese cabbage (napa) to prevent them from sticking and possibly for aesthetic reasons – let’s face it; they are not much to look at, resembling a beggar’s purse, these plump dumplings are stuffed with a meatball that is swimming in a rich and succulent broth just waiting for you. This broth is made from chicken, pork, cured ham and other seasonings, cooked for over 2 hours. Then it is combined with agar agar, or gelatin, and once cooled it is cut into cubes (aspic) of concentrated gelatinous broth. As the dumplings are filled with the pork/pork & crabmeat mixture, this aspic is also incorporated, and as the dumpling steams and cooks to perfection, this little cube melts and cradles the meat that is nestled in its doughy purse – and voila you have soupy dumplings!

Eating these dumplings take some practice, and I have come up with my very own method – I have never burned my tongue since…

1) Pick up a soupy dumpling with the tongs and gently place on your Chinese spoon
2) Pierce the dough and let the soup drain onto the spoon
3) Take the dumpling and place it on your plate
4) Spoon a tiny bit of the soy/ginger/black vinegar sauce over it
5) Pick it up with your chopsticks and take a bite until it is all consumed
6) Then take in the broth that you have reserved on the spoon (sort of a chaser for your dumpling)

Savor all the flavors that are exploding in your mouth - intense, and notice how it's a bit sticky.... mmmm!!

This is what keeps me coming back for more! Dig in for another – you can’t just eat one!
Also...if you are feeling a bit adventurous - try the Jellyfish ... it's full of texture and crunch ...

Joe's Shanghai
19 Pell Street
New York, NY 10013
212-233-8888

NOBU - small name big flavors

Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, known to the world simply as Nobu found himself mesmerized by the atmosphere of a sushi restaurant when his older brother took him for the very first time, and from then on he started his ambitious career, because he knew he was destined to be in the kitchen.

After graduating from high school he found a live-in job at a sushi restaurant in Tokyo. At 24, he accepted an offer from a customer to open a restaurant and that took him to Lima, Peru. The effect of his time spent in Peru cannot be inflated as this resulted in his incorporation of Peruvian influences into his dishes – the genesis of his signature style. After 3 years and a brief time Argentina, he was heading back to his homeland of Japan, but an opportunity to open a restaurant in Alaska came up, unfortunately the restaurant burned to the ground on a night he happened to be away from the restaurant. With debts to pay on the ruined business enterprise, he went to Los Angeles on a friend’s advice, took a job at a sushi bar to pay off his debts. Jump to 1987, about 10 years later, he opened his own restaurant Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills. Matsuhisa was an instant success and became an attraction for food lovers and celebrities. Thus began his longtime friendship and business relationship with Robert De Niro. He partnered with actor Robert De Niro, producer Meir Teper, restaurateur Drew Nieporent, and managing partner Richard Notar to bring his modern Japanese to Tribeca. Drawing upon his traditional training at sushi bars in Tokyo and his life in Peru and Argentina, he created a brand new trend in Japanese cuisine by fusing South American and Western influences.

Peruvian cuisine is considered one of the most diverse in the world. The Economist in 2004 stated that "Peru can lay claim to one of the world's dozen or so great cuisines", while at the Fourth International Summitof Gastronomy Madrid Fusión 2006, Lima was declared the "Gastronomic Capital of the Americas". From pre-Incas, Inca heritage, to Spanish, Basque, African, Sino-Cantonese, Japanese and finally Italian, French and British migration - Peruvian cuisine combines the flavors of 4 continents and with this eclectic variety in traditional dishes – the coast alone boasts over 2000 different types of soups, and over 250 traditional desserts.

This great variety in the cuisine come from 3 major influences:

1) Peru's unique geography

2) Peru's openness and blending of distinct ethnicities and cultures

3) Incorporating the ancient cuisine into modern Peruvian cuisine

NOBU is a chain of Japanese restaurants that spans the globe. With the fusion of Peruvian and Japanese influences being the focal point, the art shines through in the fusing of the ingredients used. Japan and Peru use and consume a lot of seafood. They equally enjoy fresh fish and ingredients, but where the Japanese use soy sauce, the Peruvians use salsa, spices, olive oil and tomatoes. In Japan, they marinate fish, and in Peru they make a ceviche with the same fish, but eaten in an entirely different way. No doubt Chef Nobu Matsuhisa experimented with ingredient available while he was in Peru, since Japanese ingredients were not readily available. With a touch of his genius and in only 3 years time, he managed to transport the 500 year old Peruvian mixed influence cuisine and integrated it with Japanese style cooking.

Dining at NOBU is a wonderful experience, the staff is always very friendly, and the atmosphere/ ambiance truly sublime with a Zen-like quality. All thought out with precision and designed by famed architect David Rockwell. The food is consistently fresh, and always orgasmic to the palate – each bite transcends you and you just can’t stop eating, you want to keep going back for more. It is expected of Nobu, and they deliver every time with their tantalizing dishes ranging from Wasabi Lobster Tacos, Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno (Tiradito style) to the classic Rock Shrimp Tempura and, of course, Black Cod with Yuzu Miso. There are anticuchos, (a cut stewed meat on skewers) which in Peru are cow hearts but substituted with Japanese Wagyu Beef, (cooked teriyaki style or with wasabi salsa) Sea Bass and Truffles with Yuzu Soy Butter. All heaven on a plate. The prices are not cheap, but so well worth it every time because it is fine dining at its best and you will be, in essence, eating Peruvian influenced Japanese Cuisine. Some may say this is a biased review, but my love for NOBU has led me to rendezvous with all these fabulously executed and orgasmic dishes in Las Vegas and also in the Bahamas...hmmm, which NOBU will be next?

NOBU - 105 Hudson Street (212) 219-0500
NOBU 57 - 40 W 57th Street (212) 757-3000

Healthy Eating for Vitality and Longevity

Tao is an ancient Chinese “doctrine” meaning the way or path and can be roughly stated to be the force that flows through the universe, or the force behind the natural order, equating it with the influence that keeps the universe balanced. This is often expressed through the yin and yang point of view, where every act creates a counter-act as a normal, inevitable movement inside the way of the Tao. “Go with the flow” is an adequate description of Taoism’s principle teachings. Taoism is one of the great “religions” of the world, although, Taoists do not pray to a God as Catholics do, but seek answers to life's problems through inner meditation and external observation. The belief is that Tao surrounds everyone and everyone must listen to find it. They strongly promote health and vitality, therefore, their diet is extremely important to the physical, mental and spiritual being. Two common principles of Taoism: To increase Qi, the vital life force energy flowing through the body and strive to keep balanced in the awareness of the surrounding ecosystem. The Taoist diet is not to lose weight … but to keep harmonized within your body and what you put into your body has a lot to do with how you feel.

Here are some simple rules:
1) Eat only food, not un-natural non-foods (heavily processed foods that the body cannot process, artificial additives, drugs etc. that contain little or no nutritional value (white flour, sugar etc.)

2) Avoid foods that are hard to digest (dairy products, red meats, and anything acidic which upsets the delicate balance of the stomach – like citrus fruits)

3) Opt to eat the food nature intended us to eat – opt for locally grown whenever possible and choose organic 100% USDA certified, as they contain no artificial chemicals, or pesticides and causes less harm to the environment.

Ayurveda … ayur (life) veda (science), is the knowledge concerning the maintenance of a long and healthy life. An integral part of this science is to use the body, mind and soul to service the real you (your cosmic spirit). The ideas and teachings encourage people to follow a wholesome lifestyle, one that gives fulfillment, clarity and peace of mind in return. Ayurvedic cuisine is about cooking and eating for better balance, well-being and happiness. The cuisine is one of the major components of Ayurveda. There are no “bad” foods, only the idea of balance - and the principal goal of these practices is to cleanse the body of substances/toxins that can cause disease, thus helping to re-establish harmony and balance.

Qi is an Asian eatery inspired by the Taoist diet and Ayurvedic cooking.

At Qi, two Asian philosophies come together melodiously in their tantalizing dishes that are filled with natural health benefits of traditional Asian ingredients. Some examples are tumeric, curcumin, lemongrass, ginger … that all help maintain energy flow keep the balance within our bodies and also act as a buffer for when we want to indulge. Ayurveda describes six major tastes by which all foods can be categorized and to maintain perfect balance and be completely satisfied and nourished; we should ideally have these six tastes at every meal: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent. These are all represented at Qi.
Upon entering, you will notice the high ceilings and model sail ships hanging, alongside burnt orange colored panels that run across the ceiling in a wave-like manner. The walls are partially adorned with abacuses and gongs. The seating is communal and the seats are giant “cubes”, that initially look apprehensive as to how comfortable they are, but to be completely honest, they cradle your backside and align your back ergonomically – go figure. An educated guess would be they incorporated Feng Shuipractice in the décor of Qi, since the five elements/phases fire, metal, wood, water and earth are represented. There is Asian art visible through a glass cube in the center of the space that will definitely impress you, and last but not least, the dimly lit rest rooms are a religious, even a spiritual, experience with museum-like Asian statues and a waterfall sink that is a giant ceramic urn.

Qi is great for big groups; the portions are quite generous and all beautifully presented. The food is Asian, Asian fusion, Thai, Malaysian and Chinese influenced and literally explodes with the flavors like curry, coconut milk infused with aromatic, exotic Asian herbs and spices. Let’s not forget the health benefits from the cocktails with ingredients from matcha green tea to ginger, ginseng and lotus root. The medicinal properties will just about rival the alcoholic strength you will feel, as the drinks can be a bit heavy-handed. Stop in for Happy Hour from 4-7 and sample a specialty cocktail at $6. You will find the menu complete with appetizers to wonderful specials with prices ranging from $3.50 to $19.00, plus they are Vegan-friendly. Qi is highly recommended, and an acceptable word for you Scrabble enthusiasts out there.
What a fabulous eating journey...to be revisited over and over again. Namaste!

Qi
(212) 929-9917
31 West 14th Street
New York, NY 10011

Go Scandinavian!

When you think of Scandinavia’s history, what comes to mind? Well, for me, its Vikings boldly faring the seas preparing for pillage - I was only a bit off. In my research, the reputation for barbaric practices is a significant part of Scandinavian history, but that also contradicts the diplomatic structure of its nations - whose independence rose from distinct differences in tribe, culture and religion witnessed around 98 BC. The initial evidences of human settlement in Scandinavia are beyond ten-thousand years and they developed a sophisticated way of living through hunting and fishing, but the Vikings fell off the radar for a two-hundred year period C. 850 AD to 1050 AD. So, the main sources about them are in archeological artifacts, and written legacy, but for the most part, of folklore. Some things hold true – like story book / fairy tale-curds and whey, tarts and porridge that Viking descendants still eat today. They also loved oysters, mussels, mutton, cheese, cabbage, apples, onions, berries and nuts, and all these continue to be staples of the Scandinavian diet. They raised chickens and geese. They hunted deer, wild birds, bear and elk. Recipes being used today weren’t written down - but passed down, like folk ballads, mouth to mouth, memory to memory. So what is Scandinavian food? It is simple cooking, and it reflects the culture…simple art, furniture, and simple cooking techniques. Ingredients come from the sea, a fresh-water lake, or the earth - fish, pork, poultry, beets, potatoes, cucumbers, dill, parsley, horseradish, broiled, baked, and smoked apples. One of the greatest Scandinavian delicacies, is gravlaks (cured salmon) - prepared with sugar, salt, white pepper and dill – and of course we are all familiar with herring and Swedish meatballs!

My very first encounter with Smörgås Chef was at The Village Voice’s Second Annual Choice Eats and their food really stood out for me, it was appealing to look at and the taste - uniquely their own. In a city full of such diverse ethnic offerings, there are not many Scandinavian restaurants. After a small sampling at Choice Eats, I knew Smörgås Chef was one destination in the very near future. Luckily, willing friends were all gung-ho about trying this quaint café in the Heart of the West Village. Our hostess was most gracious and seated us before our entire party arrived. The decor is pleasant and welcoming with a combination of modern and old. There is a well stocked, mirrored bar with beautiful steel and wood bar stools, bright airy windowed nooks, wooden tables topped with white paper, daises in a small vase, table dividers made with glass bottles, a very interesting mural, plus a tree nailed into the ground in the back dining area.

Our waitress took our drink orders and returned shortly with a refreshing homemade Lingonberry soda, a Bloody Mary and a Mojito (OK the last two are not so Scandinavian – but brunch just isn’t brunch without a Bloody!). The menu has a lot to offer, simple sounding, uncomplicated choices, all concentrating on fresh and natural ingredients, vibrant herbs and subtle flavors all come together in the gastronomic traditions of Norway, Sweden and Denmark, and features Scandinavian ingredients like herring, lingonberries, cloudberries, gravlaks and Aquavit to name a few. Having tasted the Swedish meatballs at Choice Eats - I knew what I was getting before I arrived!

The Swedish Meatballs were soft, delicate and bite-sized, served alongside chive mashed potatoes, glazed zucchini & carrots, lingonberries and grädd sås. All the flavors together were heavenly. Every bite was comforting, which I compare to a piece of dark chocolate melting in your mouth.

The Blue Shell Mussels were delicious. The mussels were plump and meaty served in a shallot, tarragon white wine cream broth and fries on the side.
The Smoked Salmon Benedict was perfectly paired with a light salad, and the Carlsberg hollandaise was lightly drizzled over the poached eggs, salmon and a toasted muffins.

The Angus Beef Burger with Jarlsberg, Bacon and Fries was uneventful according to my friend. (FYI, we gave him a hard time about ordering a burger when there was such a wealth of other choices to choose from.)

The Scandinavian Vanilla Waffles with the cloudberry sauce was just want we needed to round out brunch.

My curiosity led me to the “Aquavit” Bloody Mary … it had a very interesting after taste, that reminded me of rye bread – maybe I needed another one (LOL)

In summary, our Smörgås Chef experience was overall very satisfying, the staff was extremely eager to please, friendly and the food – in my opinion DELICIOUS, simple fare. I will definitely be back for more Scandinavian cooking.

Smörgås Chef West Village
283 West 12th Street
(crossing West 4th Street, btwn 7th & 8th Avenues)
New York, NY 10014 Telephone: 212-243-7073

 

Are you FOCACCIA kidding?

What is an Enoteca?

Enoteca is the Italian word for wine store used to describe a special type of local or regional wine shop that originated in Italy. The primary use for an enoteca was for giving visitors and tourists the possibility to taste wines at a reasonable cost and possibly to buy them. They are often run in affiliation with the makers of the wine, and were mainly a source of information about the wine, so they were often referred to as “wine libraries” since the source of information on local wines were hands-on. This proved to be a very popular way of offering customers a more intimate and direct way to experience wines without the larger outlets of wine that were usually intended for established customers. Most enotecas usually stocked small amounts of each wine, so if customers wished to purchase large quantities of wine after tasting they would have been referred directly to the producers. The idea of an enoteca has also reached to some other countries and in most cases, they sell other local foodstuff and/or serves small bites to go with the wines. In less official terms, an Enoteca is simply a laid-back wine bar that serves hand-selected wines along with small plates, artisanal cheeses and cured meats in an ambiance of genuine friendliness.

Accademia di Vino, is certainly an impressive presence taking up about a half of a city block on the Upper East Side. It’s a restaurant, enoteca, and wine bar all in one. The glass-enclosed ground-level bar can be quite lively at times and dedicated to noshing and wines by the glass. The cavernous dining room downstairs features a low vaulted ceiling and has wine cellar likeness filled not with aging barrels, but in wall wine cabinets (probably temperature controlled) filled with bottles of wine. Both areas are quite dark, and the furnishings are dark wooden tables and chairs.

The menu is very comprehensive, offering Italian regional cuisine using ingredients that are both local and seasonal. There is a huge selection of hot and cold antipasti, salumi boards (Italian coldcuts), carpaccios (in this case only fish served raw and paper thin) formaggi, (cheeses) as well as other crudo (raw fish dressed with olive oil, salt and citrus juice and sometimes vinegar) and tartares. They also offer grilled thin crustted pizzas with fresh combinations of ingredients. There is also a selection of salads, entrees that include pasta dishes, roasted meats, fish and side dishes. While variety is good, in my opinion it was overkill.

Although this is a good place for lunch if you happen to be in the area, please be warned – the service is rather short of expectations. The food overall is hit or miss in my most humble opinion and lacks consistency, and each time I leave wondering why do I frequent this place ... then the smell of truffles come to mind .... ah yes, the truffle pizza by far is excellent. However, the salad of mixed greens was quite bland, the Caesar salad is a better choice, the eggplant caviar featured whole chickpeas? (not what was expected). The tuna carpaccio was nicely paired with fried artichoke shavings. The salumi board was exquisite – the salty, fatty, yet delicate nature of cured Italian meats need a ciabatta, semolina or any, rustic hearty Italian bread for contrast and texture, but are you FOCACCIA kidding me? Focaccia, a lovely bread indeed, but not with Italian cured meats, it’s too soft and dense. When we asked the waiter for a different vehicle to enjoy this lovely plate of artery clogging goodness – he looked at us like we were released from a mental institution and said that's what they serve it with and didn't offer another alternative, NOT even breadsticks in the house? Quite baffling when they have everything on the menu, except the kitchen sink. Anyhow, that repartee with the waiter took away from the entire experience. This "outpost" is a far cry from the traditional enotecas that are inviting and genuinely warm and friendly, but this is also a restaurant and winebar, perhaps too many hats take away from the pure simpleness of an enoteca's true intentions. Sometimes, convenience isn’t really convenient especially if the service is lacking and the food is inconsistent. The location on the Westside was a better experience; and quite bustling on a Monday evening when their wine list is 50% off. Remember, everything is just a cab ride away in New York City and with a city spilling with some of the best restaurants ... you're likely to find another place to dine up the block.

Accademia di Vino 1081 Third Avenue @ 64th Street, New York, NY 10021 (212) 888-6333

Accademia di Vino 2427 Broadway (89th/90th Streets), New York, NY 10024 (212) 787-3070

MY BIG FAT GREEK CHECK

Greek food is uncomplicated and elegant, with flavors subtle to full-bodied, and enjoying Greek food – to many, it is like an adventure into the land of the Gods of Olympus. Typical Greek cuisine usually consists of fresh meat, vegetables, and seasonings, a typical lunch is often made up of mezedes (hors d'oeuvres) and may include meatballs, squash balls, shrimp, cheese, olives, tzatziki (yogurt and cucumbers), eggplant dip, and sausage. With every successive invasion and settlement throughout the centuries, the culinary influences from the Romans, Venetians, Balkans, Turks, Slavs, and even the English have been adopted and adapted. On the flipside Greek cooking has influenced and been influenced by their successors during those times. Some names have retained from these cultures and most notably from the Ottoman Empire. Dishes with names like tzatziki (from the Turkish "cacik"), hummus (the Arabic word for chickpea) and dolmades (from the Turkish "dolma"), that can be found in kitchens from Armenia to Egypt, have also found a home in Greek cooking, and adapted over the years to local tastes and traditions. Herbs like oregano, thyme, rosemary, parsley, coriander, dill, fennel and sage; spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, vanilla are crucial to the culinary rhythm.

Periyali claims to be the first to introduce traditional Greek food and placed Greek wine on the map (according to their website). It is one of the most famous Greek restaurants in Manhattan. The atmosphere at Periyali is stylish, quiet and peaceful, and really great for a romantic dinner for two, a business dinner, or just getting together with friends. Periyali is the Greek word for coastline or seashore, and aptly named, because much of menu’s offerings originated from the Greek Islands, specifically of Patmos. The Patmos port is attached to the island sometimes called "The Jerusalem of the Aegean." This beautiful island boasts mountains and coves, churches and sea captains' impressive homes. It is not a big island with the monastery of St. John that towers above the capital. There are many nice beaches along the jagged coastline, and the people grow fruits and olives on the green hills. The landscape invites you to take long walks and there is much to discover.

The service at Periyali was good, the waiters were helpful, but did try to steer us into pricier items on the menu. The Oktapodi Sharas (GRILLED OCTOPUS) was the best I have ever had … tender, succulent and grilled to perfection. The trio of Taramosalata (Caviar Mousse), Melitzanosalata (Grilled Eggplant Puree) Tzatziki (Cucumber with Yogurt and Dill) is perfect for sharing, as with many of the other choices. For our main course Paidakia Thedrolivano - Charcoal grilled Lamb chops, roast potatoes, fresh rosemary - well seasoned, the Special Fish of the Day - Bronzini (a European sea bass) was served with a rice pilaf and broccoli. The Walnut and Orange cake - nothing out of the ordinary and was a bit dry for my taste.

All in all, Periyali was good; the check was a bit steep and we probably could have ventured outside of Manhattan to Astoria for some traditional Greek food.

However, I would definitely go back for the Grilled Octopus in a New York minute!

Periyali
35 West 20th Street
New York, NY 10011
212-463-7890
www.periyali.com

Modern Mexican Misses

Mexican food today is so Americanized and much of it has little to do with the fine culinary background that fueled the country for centuries. Some restaurants in the U.S. that serve authentic Mexican food are usually where there is a concentration of Mexican Americans – particularly in California, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, and Florida. Keep in mind; if you are eating Taco Bell, it’s not authentic Mexican food. When you dine in an “Americanized” Mexican restaurant, you look forward to the dishes swimming in cheese, giant dollops of sour cream. There are so many health benefits in Mexican foods, as most of the cooking centers around:

Corn is high in the carotenoid and lutein. The lutein in yellow corn and yellow corn food products can protect against heart disease and macular degeneration.

Beans are a good source of essential B vitamins, fiber, protein, and iron. Recent studies have shown that eating beans on a daily basis helps to reduce cholesterol while providing excellent nutrition.

Avocados are an excellent source of potassium, vitamins B and E, monounsaturated fatty acids, and fiber. The oils contained in avocados include oleic and linoleic acids and studies show that these oils may help to lower cholesterol levels.

Peanuts in numerous studies, have been shown to promote heart health. Peanuts are a good source for vitamin E, niacin, folate, protein and manganese.

Tomatoes provide an excellent source of vitamins C and K, carotenes (especially lycopene), and biotin. They are also a very good source of vitamin B6, niacin, folic acid, fiber, and pantothenic acid. Studies also found that tomatoes lower the risk of heart disease, cataracts, and macular degeneration.

Many used to consider Mexican food a low end type of cuisine, and Richard Sandoval, launched a revolution in America by reinterpreting Mexican cuisine in a modern, yet genuine way, by coupling native Mexican ingredients with European techniques. This fresh take and approach is a marriage of chic presentations and a sophisticated dining experience. He has changed our perception of Mexican cuisine in this country. His restaurant Maya is the known as the home of "Modern Mexican”. On my recent visit to Maya, we had a sampling from their special Restaurant week menu:

For Appetizer:
Ceviche de Salmón … salmon / habanero-mustard citrus juices / horse radish /capers / red onion / cucumber which was flavorless and soupy.
Tacos de Chilorio … flour tortilla / pulled pork / pickle onion /cilantro / tomatillo salsa was also a bit on the bland side and really nothing to write about.

For Main Course:
Carne Asada … marinated grilled hanger steak / black bean purée / caramelized onion /grilled sliced tomato / chile de árbol sauce (this dish was highly recommended by the waiter – it was just OK)
Róbalo Rayado … pumpkin seed crusted striped bass / zuchinni-chayote gratin / chipotle black bean reduction / chile pasilla emulsion  (this was absolutely delicious)

For Dessert:
Chocoflan … dark chocolate cake / caramel flan / candied pecans  (this was just ok)
Sorbet … green apple / pear / mango (I found this boring)

A friend in the business said to me, that service and food during Restaurant Week is not an exact indicator as to how the restaurant is on a regular basis. I happen to disagree, if the service and food is good, it should be good all the time, regardless of how busy the establishment gets. In my opinion its the best time to sample different restaurants. They have a special menu and you select an appetizer, entrée and a dessert at a set price. You can also order from their regular menus. But I am really glad we chose to come to Maya during Restaurant week. There is a sense of intimacy in the dining room, as the walls are adorned with folk art and glass shelves lined with silverware create a tastefully festive atmosphere. but the service however, is variable and lackluster. The portions here are quite small in general based on looking at what others were ordering, but they do offer a fantastic array of cocktails and a great happy hour. Our experience was not the best, but would be willing to give it another try.

Maya
1191 First Avenue
Between 64th & 65th Streets
212-585-1818