How to Eat Soup Dumplings ...

There is certain rawness, and an “it is what it is” attitude in Chinatown. Its crowded streets are strewn with produce and seafood markets buzzing with client. Street vendors are practically at every turn of a corner with an assortment of unknown fruits and vegetables at ridiculously low prices. There are numerous local restaurants hanging whole boiled chickens, crispy ducks, roasted pig and other barbequed items in their windows for sale. Chinese markets with boxes spilling onto the sidewalk with dried delicacies such as mushrooms, shrimps and oysters. Many street peddlers whispering Gucci, Louis, and Prada as you pass in trying to sell you a knock-off. These are just some of the local elements of Chinatown…but tucked away in the heart of Chinatown is Joe's Shanghai. This bustling restaurant is always crowded!

Shanghai has a huge array, but few dishes to call its own. Like any city with significant access to other areas, they have absorbed foods and cooking styles of the entire country. There are specialties for sure, but not that many. Some favorites are Lion’s Head Casserole, Drunken Chicken or Drunken Shrimp, Salt Cured Chicken, and Preserved Mustard Green, Winter Melon Soup, Fish Head Casserole and cold appetizer dishes such as Jelly Fish, Braised Sliced Beef, and Aromatic Cold Fish. You will find many types cold appetizers, casseroles and braised dishes on the menu at Joe’s Shanghai. The Shanghainese enjoy many of their foods slow-cooked in soy sauce; and they call this preparation style red-cooking. They also adore steamed dumplings called Soup Dumplings, and this is why I have been going to Joe’s for years.

Joe’s Shanghai in my opinion is known best for their soup dumplings, xiao long bao. I think the staff would be shocked if you didn't start with these with your meal.

They offer two variations, crab and pork meat or just pork. They arrive in a hot bamboo steamer, all 8 juicy beauties resting on top of Chinese cabbage (napa) to prevent them from sticking and possibly for aesthetic reasons – let’s face it; they are not much to look at, resembling a beggar’s purse, these plump dumplings are stuffed with a meatball that is swimming in a rich and succulent broth just waiting for you. This broth is made from chicken, pork, cured ham and other seasonings, cooked for over 2 hours. Then it is combined with agar agar, or gelatin, and once cooled it is cut into cubes (aspic) of concentrated gelatinous broth. As the dumplings are filled with the pork/pork & crabmeat mixture, this aspic is also incorporated, and as the dumpling steams and cooks to perfection, this little cube melts and cradles the meat that is nestled in its doughy purse – and voila you have soupy dumplings!

Eating these dumplings take some practice, and I have come up with my very own method – I have never burned my tongue since…

1) Pick up a soupy dumpling with the tongs and gently place on your Chinese spoon
2) Pierce the dough and let the soup drain onto the spoon
3) Take the dumpling and place it on your plate
4) Spoon a tiny bit of the soy/ginger/black vinegar sauce over it
5) Pick it up with your chopsticks and take a bite until it is all consumed
6) Then take in the broth that you have reserved on the spoon (sort of a chaser for your dumpling)

Savor all the flavors that are exploding in your mouth - intense, and notice how it's a bit sticky.... mmmm!!

This is what keeps me coming back for more! Dig in for another – you can’t just eat one!
Also...if you are feeling a bit adventurous - try the Jellyfish ... it's full of texture and crunch ...

Joe's Shanghai
19 Pell Street
New York, NY 10013
212-233-8888