Enoteca is the Italian word for wine store used to describe a special type of local or regional wine shop that originated in Italy. The primary use for an enoteca was for giving visitors and tourists the possibility to taste wines at a reasonable cost and possibly to buy them. They are often run in affiliation with the makers of the wine, and were mainly a source of information about the wine, so they were often referred to as “wine libraries” since the source of information on local wines were hands-on. This proved to be a very popular way of offering customers a more intimate and direct way to experience wines without the larger outlets of wine that were usually intended for established customers. Most enotecas usually stocked small amounts of each wine, so if customers wished to purchase large quantities of wine after tasting they would have been referred directly to the producers. The idea of an enoteca has also reached to some other countries and in most cases, they sell other local foodstuff and/or serves small bites to go with the wines. In less official terms, an Enoteca is simply a laid-back wine bar that serves hand-selected wines along with small plates, artisanal cheeses and cured meats in an ambiance of genuine friendliness.
Accademia di Vino, is certainly an impressive presence taking up about a half of a city block on the Upper East Side. It’s a restaurant, enoteca, and wine bar all in one. The glass-enclosed ground-level bar can be quite lively at times and dedicated to noshing and wines by the glass. The cavernous dining room downstairs features a low vaulted ceiling and has wine cellar likeness filled not with aging barrels, but in wall wine cabinets (probably temperature controlled) filled with bottles of wine. Both areas are quite dark, and the furnishings are dark wooden tables and chairs.
The menu is very comprehensive, offering Italian regional cuisine using ingredients that are both local and seasonal. There is a huge selection of hot and cold antipasti, salumi boards (Italian coldcuts), carpaccios (in this case only fish served raw and paper thin) formaggi, (cheeses) as well as other crudo (raw fish dressed with olive oil, salt and citrus juice and sometimes vinegar) and tartares. They also offer grilled thin crustted pizzas with fresh combinations of ingredients. There is also a selection of salads, entrees that include pasta dishes, roasted meats, fish and side dishes. While variety is good, in my opinion it was overkill.
Although this is a good place for lunch if you happen to be in the area, please be warned – the service is rather short of expectations. The food overall is hit or miss in my most humble opinion and lacks consistency, and each time I leave wondering why do I frequent this place ... then the smell of truffles come to mind .... ah yes, the truffle pizza by far is excellent. However, the salad of mixed greens was quite bland, the Caesar salad is a better choice, the eggplant caviar featured whole chickpeas? (not what was expected). The tuna carpaccio was nicely paired with fried artichoke shavings. The salumi board was exquisite – the salty, fatty, yet delicate nature of cured Italian meats need a ciabatta, semolina or any, rustic hearty Italian bread for contrast and texture, but are you FOCACCIA kidding me? Focaccia, a lovely bread indeed, but not with Italian cured meats, it’s too soft and dense. When we asked the waiter for a different vehicle to enjoy this lovely plate of artery clogging goodness – he looked at us like we were released from a mental institution and said that's what they serve it with and didn't offer another alternative, NOT even breadsticks in the house? Quite baffling when they have everything on the menu, except the kitchen sink. Anyhow, that repartee with the waiter took away from the entire experience. This "outpost" is a far cry from the traditional enotecas that are inviting and genuinely warm and friendly, but this is also a restaurant and winebar, perhaps too many hats take away from the pure simpleness of an enoteca's true intentions. Sometimes, convenience isn’t really convenient especially if the service is lacking and the food is inconsistent. The location on the Westside was a better experience; and quite bustling on a Monday evening when their wine list is 50% off. Remember, everything is just a cab ride away in New York City and with a city spilling with some of the best restaurants ... you're likely to find another place to dine up the block.
Accademia di Vino 1081 Third Avenue @ 64th Street, New York, NY 10021 (212) 888-6333
Accademia di Vino 2427 Broadway (89th/90th Streets), New York, NY 10024 (212) 787-3070
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