Go Scandinavian!

When you think of Scandinavia’s history, what comes to mind? Well, for me, its Vikings boldly faring the seas preparing for pillage - I was only a bit off. In my research, the reputation for barbaric practices is a significant part of Scandinavian history, but that also contradicts the diplomatic structure of its nations - whose independence rose from distinct differences in tribe, culture and religion witnessed around 98 BC. The initial evidences of human settlement in Scandinavia are beyond ten-thousand years and they developed a sophisticated way of living through hunting and fishing, but the Vikings fell off the radar for a two-hundred year period C. 850 AD to 1050 AD. So, the main sources about them are in archeological artifacts, and written legacy, but for the most part, of folklore. Some things hold true – like story book / fairy tale-curds and whey, tarts and porridge that Viking descendants still eat today. They also loved oysters, mussels, mutton, cheese, cabbage, apples, onions, berries and nuts, and all these continue to be staples of the Scandinavian diet. They raised chickens and geese. They hunted deer, wild birds, bear and elk. Recipes being used today weren’t written down - but passed down, like folk ballads, mouth to mouth, memory to memory. So what is Scandinavian food? It is simple cooking, and it reflects the culture…simple art, furniture, and simple cooking techniques. Ingredients come from the sea, a fresh-water lake, or the earth - fish, pork, poultry, beets, potatoes, cucumbers, dill, parsley, horseradish, broiled, baked, and smoked apples. One of the greatest Scandinavian delicacies, is gravlaks (cured salmon) - prepared with sugar, salt, white pepper and dill – and of course we are all familiar with herring and Swedish meatballs!

My very first encounter with Smörgås Chef was at The Village Voice’s Second Annual Choice Eats and their food really stood out for me, it was appealing to look at and the taste - uniquely their own. In a city full of such diverse ethnic offerings, there are not many Scandinavian restaurants. After a small sampling at Choice Eats, I knew Smörgås Chef was one destination in the very near future. Luckily, willing friends were all gung-ho about trying this quaint café in the Heart of the West Village. Our hostess was most gracious and seated us before our entire party arrived. The decor is pleasant and welcoming with a combination of modern and old. There is a well stocked, mirrored bar with beautiful steel and wood bar stools, bright airy windowed nooks, wooden tables topped with white paper, daises in a small vase, table dividers made with glass bottles, a very interesting mural, plus a tree nailed into the ground in the back dining area.

Our waitress took our drink orders and returned shortly with a refreshing homemade Lingonberry soda, a Bloody Mary and a Mojito (OK the last two are not so Scandinavian – but brunch just isn’t brunch without a Bloody!). The menu has a lot to offer, simple sounding, uncomplicated choices, all concentrating on fresh and natural ingredients, vibrant herbs and subtle flavors all come together in the gastronomic traditions of Norway, Sweden and Denmark, and features Scandinavian ingredients like herring, lingonberries, cloudberries, gravlaks and Aquavit to name a few. Having tasted the Swedish meatballs at Choice Eats - I knew what I was getting before I arrived!

The Swedish Meatballs were soft, delicate and bite-sized, served alongside chive mashed potatoes, glazed zucchini & carrots, lingonberries and grädd sås. All the flavors together were heavenly. Every bite was comforting, which I compare to a piece of dark chocolate melting in your mouth.

The Blue Shell Mussels were delicious. The mussels were plump and meaty served in a shallot, tarragon white wine cream broth and fries on the side.
The Smoked Salmon Benedict was perfectly paired with a light salad, and the Carlsberg hollandaise was lightly drizzled over the poached eggs, salmon and a toasted muffins.

The Angus Beef Burger with Jarlsberg, Bacon and Fries was uneventful according to my friend. (FYI, we gave him a hard time about ordering a burger when there was such a wealth of other choices to choose from.)

The Scandinavian Vanilla Waffles with the cloudberry sauce was just want we needed to round out brunch.

My curiosity led me to the “Aquavit” Bloody Mary … it had a very interesting after taste, that reminded me of rye bread – maybe I needed another one (LOL)

In summary, our Smörgås Chef experience was overall very satisfying, the staff was extremely eager to please, friendly and the food – in my opinion DELICIOUS, simple fare. I will definitely be back for more Scandinavian cooking.

Smörgås Chef West Village
283 West 12th Street
(crossing West 4th Street, btwn 7th & 8th Avenues)
New York, NY 10014 Telephone: 212-243-7073