Go Scandinavian!

When you think of Scandinavia’s history, what comes to mind? Well, for me, its Vikings boldly faring the seas preparing for pillage - I was only a bit off. In my research, the reputation for barbaric practices is a significant part of Scandinavian history, but that also contradicts the diplomatic structure of its nations - whose independence rose from distinct differences in tribe, culture and religion witnessed around 98 BC. The initial evidences of human settlement in Scandinavia are beyond ten-thousand years and they developed a sophisticated way of living through hunting and fishing, but the Vikings fell off the radar for a two-hundred year period C. 850 AD to 1050 AD. So, the main sources about them are in archeological artifacts, and written legacy, but for the most part, of folklore. Some things hold true – like story book / fairy tale-curds and whey, tarts and porridge that Viking descendants still eat today. They also loved oysters, mussels, mutton, cheese, cabbage, apples, onions, berries and nuts, and all these continue to be staples of the Scandinavian diet. They raised chickens and geese. They hunted deer, wild birds, bear and elk. Recipes being used today weren’t written down - but passed down, like folk ballads, mouth to mouth, memory to memory. So what is Scandinavian food? It is simple cooking, and it reflects the culture…simple art, furniture, and simple cooking techniques. Ingredients come from the sea, a fresh-water lake, or the earth - fish, pork, poultry, beets, potatoes, cucumbers, dill, parsley, horseradish, broiled, baked, and smoked apples. One of the greatest Scandinavian delicacies, is gravlaks (cured salmon) - prepared with sugar, salt, white pepper and dill – and of course we are all familiar with herring and Swedish meatballs!

My very first encounter with Smörgås Chef was at The Village Voice’s Second Annual Choice Eats and their food really stood out for me, it was appealing to look at and the taste - uniquely their own. In a city full of such diverse ethnic offerings, there are not many Scandinavian restaurants. After a small sampling at Choice Eats, I knew Smörgås Chef was one destination in the very near future. Luckily, willing friends were all gung-ho about trying this quaint café in the Heart of the West Village. Our hostess was most gracious and seated us before our entire party arrived. The decor is pleasant and welcoming with a combination of modern and old. There is a well stocked, mirrored bar with beautiful steel and wood bar stools, bright airy windowed nooks, wooden tables topped with white paper, daises in a small vase, table dividers made with glass bottles, a very interesting mural, plus a tree nailed into the ground in the back dining area.

Our waitress took our drink orders and returned shortly with a refreshing homemade Lingonberry soda, a Bloody Mary and a Mojito (OK the last two are not so Scandinavian – but brunch just isn’t brunch without a Bloody!). The menu has a lot to offer, simple sounding, uncomplicated choices, all concentrating on fresh and natural ingredients, vibrant herbs and subtle flavors all come together in the gastronomic traditions of Norway, Sweden and Denmark, and features Scandinavian ingredients like herring, lingonberries, cloudberries, gravlaks and Aquavit to name a few. Having tasted the Swedish meatballs at Choice Eats - I knew what I was getting before I arrived!

The Swedish Meatballs were soft, delicate and bite-sized, served alongside chive mashed potatoes, glazed zucchini & carrots, lingonberries and grädd sås. All the flavors together were heavenly. Every bite was comforting, which I compare to a piece of dark chocolate melting in your mouth.

The Blue Shell Mussels were delicious. The mussels were plump and meaty served in a shallot, tarragon white wine cream broth and fries on the side.
The Smoked Salmon Benedict was perfectly paired with a light salad, and the Carlsberg hollandaise was lightly drizzled over the poached eggs, salmon and a toasted muffins.

The Angus Beef Burger with Jarlsberg, Bacon and Fries was uneventful according to my friend. (FYI, we gave him a hard time about ordering a burger when there was such a wealth of other choices to choose from.)

The Scandinavian Vanilla Waffles with the cloudberry sauce was just want we needed to round out brunch.

My curiosity led me to the “Aquavit” Bloody Mary … it had a very interesting after taste, that reminded me of rye bread – maybe I needed another one (LOL)

In summary, our Smörgås Chef experience was overall very satisfying, the staff was extremely eager to please, friendly and the food – in my opinion DELICIOUS, simple fare. I will definitely be back for more Scandinavian cooking.

Smörgås Chef West Village
283 West 12th Street
(crossing West 4th Street, btwn 7th & 8th Avenues)
New York, NY 10014 Telephone: 212-243-7073

 

Are you FOCACCIA kidding?

What is an Enoteca?

Enoteca is the Italian word for wine store used to describe a special type of local or regional wine shop that originated in Italy. The primary use for an enoteca was for giving visitors and tourists the possibility to taste wines at a reasonable cost and possibly to buy them. They are often run in affiliation with the makers of the wine, and were mainly a source of information about the wine, so they were often referred to as “wine libraries” since the source of information on local wines were hands-on. This proved to be a very popular way of offering customers a more intimate and direct way to experience wines without the larger outlets of wine that were usually intended for established customers. Most enotecas usually stocked small amounts of each wine, so if customers wished to purchase large quantities of wine after tasting they would have been referred directly to the producers. The idea of an enoteca has also reached to some other countries and in most cases, they sell other local foodstuff and/or serves small bites to go with the wines. In less official terms, an Enoteca is simply a laid-back wine bar that serves hand-selected wines along with small plates, artisanal cheeses and cured meats in an ambiance of genuine friendliness.

Accademia di Vino, is certainly an impressive presence taking up about a half of a city block on the Upper East Side. It’s a restaurant, enoteca, and wine bar all in one. The glass-enclosed ground-level bar can be quite lively at times and dedicated to noshing and wines by the glass. The cavernous dining room downstairs features a low vaulted ceiling and has wine cellar likeness filled not with aging barrels, but in wall wine cabinets (probably temperature controlled) filled with bottles of wine. Both areas are quite dark, and the furnishings are dark wooden tables and chairs.

The menu is very comprehensive, offering Italian regional cuisine using ingredients that are both local and seasonal. There is a huge selection of hot and cold antipasti, salumi boards (Italian coldcuts), carpaccios (in this case only fish served raw and paper thin) formaggi, (cheeses) as well as other crudo (raw fish dressed with olive oil, salt and citrus juice and sometimes vinegar) and tartares. They also offer grilled thin crustted pizzas with fresh combinations of ingredients. There is also a selection of salads, entrees that include pasta dishes, roasted meats, fish and side dishes. While variety is good, in my opinion it was overkill.

Although this is a good place for lunch if you happen to be in the area, please be warned – the service is rather short of expectations. The food overall is hit or miss in my most humble opinion and lacks consistency, and each time I leave wondering why do I frequent this place ... then the smell of truffles come to mind .... ah yes, the truffle pizza by far is excellent. However, the salad of mixed greens was quite bland, the Caesar salad is a better choice, the eggplant caviar featured whole chickpeas? (not what was expected). The tuna carpaccio was nicely paired with fried artichoke shavings. The salumi board was exquisite – the salty, fatty, yet delicate nature of cured Italian meats need a ciabatta, semolina or any, rustic hearty Italian bread for contrast and texture, but are you FOCACCIA kidding me? Focaccia, a lovely bread indeed, but not with Italian cured meats, it’s too soft and dense. When we asked the waiter for a different vehicle to enjoy this lovely plate of artery clogging goodness – he looked at us like we were released from a mental institution and said that's what they serve it with and didn't offer another alternative, NOT even breadsticks in the house? Quite baffling when they have everything on the menu, except the kitchen sink. Anyhow, that repartee with the waiter took away from the entire experience. This "outpost" is a far cry from the traditional enotecas that are inviting and genuinely warm and friendly, but this is also a restaurant and winebar, perhaps too many hats take away from the pure simpleness of an enoteca's true intentions. Sometimes, convenience isn’t really convenient especially if the service is lacking and the food is inconsistent. The location on the Westside was a better experience; and quite bustling on a Monday evening when their wine list is 50% off. Remember, everything is just a cab ride away in New York City and with a city spilling with some of the best restaurants ... you're likely to find another place to dine up the block.

Accademia di Vino 1081 Third Avenue @ 64th Street, New York, NY 10021 (212) 888-6333

Accademia di Vino 2427 Broadway (89th/90th Streets), New York, NY 10024 (212) 787-3070