Modern Mexican Misses

Mexican food today is so Americanized and much of it has little to do with the fine culinary background that fueled the country for centuries. Some restaurants in the U.S. that serve authentic Mexican food are usually where there is a concentration of Mexican Americans – particularly in California, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, and Florida. Keep in mind; if you are eating Taco Bell, it’s not authentic Mexican food. When you dine in an “Americanized” Mexican restaurant, you look forward to the dishes swimming in cheese, giant dollops of sour cream. There are so many health benefits in Mexican foods, as most of the cooking centers around:

Corn is high in the carotenoid and lutein. The lutein in yellow corn and yellow corn food products can protect against heart disease and macular degeneration.

Beans are a good source of essential B vitamins, fiber, protein, and iron. Recent studies have shown that eating beans on a daily basis helps to reduce cholesterol while providing excellent nutrition.

Avocados are an excellent source of potassium, vitamins B and E, monounsaturated fatty acids, and fiber. The oils contained in avocados include oleic and linoleic acids and studies show that these oils may help to lower cholesterol levels.

Peanuts in numerous studies, have been shown to promote heart health. Peanuts are a good source for vitamin E, niacin, folate, protein and manganese.

Tomatoes provide an excellent source of vitamins C and K, carotenes (especially lycopene), and biotin. They are also a very good source of vitamin B6, niacin, folic acid, fiber, and pantothenic acid. Studies also found that tomatoes lower the risk of heart disease, cataracts, and macular degeneration.

Many used to consider Mexican food a low end type of cuisine, and Richard Sandoval, launched a revolution in America by reinterpreting Mexican cuisine in a modern, yet genuine way, by coupling native Mexican ingredients with European techniques. This fresh take and approach is a marriage of chic presentations and a sophisticated dining experience. He has changed our perception of Mexican cuisine in this country. His restaurant Maya is the known as the home of "Modern Mexican”. On my recent visit to Maya, we had a sampling from their special Restaurant week menu:

For Appetizer:
Ceviche de Salmón … salmon / habanero-mustard citrus juices / horse radish /capers / red onion / cucumber which was flavorless and soupy.
Tacos de Chilorio … flour tortilla / pulled pork / pickle onion /cilantro / tomatillo salsa was also a bit on the bland side and really nothing to write about.

For Main Course:
Carne Asada … marinated grilled hanger steak / black bean purée / caramelized onion /grilled sliced tomato / chile de árbol sauce (this dish was highly recommended by the waiter – it was just OK)
Róbalo Rayado … pumpkin seed crusted striped bass / zuchinni-chayote gratin / chipotle black bean reduction / chile pasilla emulsion  (this was absolutely delicious)

For Dessert:
Chocoflan … dark chocolate cake / caramel flan / candied pecans  (this was just ok)
Sorbet … green apple / pear / mango (I found this boring)

A friend in the business said to me, that service and food during Restaurant Week is not an exact indicator as to how the restaurant is on a regular basis. I happen to disagree, if the service and food is good, it should be good all the time, regardless of how busy the establishment gets. In my opinion its the best time to sample different restaurants. They have a special menu and you select an appetizer, entrée and a dessert at a set price. You can also order from their regular menus. But I am really glad we chose to come to Maya during Restaurant week. There is a sense of intimacy in the dining room, as the walls are adorned with folk art and glass shelves lined with silverware create a tastefully festive atmosphere. but the service however, is variable and lackluster. The portions here are quite small in general based on looking at what others were ordering, but they do offer a fantastic array of cocktails and a great happy hour. Our experience was not the best, but would be willing to give it another try.

Maya
1191 First Avenue
Between 64th & 65th Streets
212-585-1818

Mad about the Mofongo ...

Café Con Leche is a charming café that serves robust and generous portions of authentic Cuban, Caribbean, and Latin American home-style dishes at very reasonable prices. The atmosphere is casual and friendly, very reminiscent of a childhood friend’s home, as the aroma originate from the kitchen and waft through the restaurant, totally inviting and comforting.

On my recent visit, I had the classic mofongo and fell in love. This is a hearty dish made from fried green plantains, then mashed with garlic, then shaped snowball-like and filled with bits of chicharrones (crispy pork). As I dug my fork into this heaping mound of golden mashed goodness, this amazing sauce oozed from it, like lava from a slow bubbling volcano spilling over the side and onto the dish that was perfectly showered with bits of crispy pork. The sauce was so flavorful and very well seasoned and can only stem from the sofrito (a versatile, aromatic puree of tomatoes, peppers, cilantro, onions, and garlic) which is the foundation for many dishes in Latin America. We sat savoring every bite, and every bite had the right consistency and texture, soft, then a crunch from the crispy pork, and the sauce - totally rounded out all the flavors.

Mofongo is very popular dish in Puerto Rican cuisine as well as Dominican cuisine. As you can imagine, both claim mofongo to be their own. In my research, both cuisines share the same roots: Taino, African and Spanish. Both countries have Middle Eastern and Chinese immigrants, as well as European influences, apart from the Spanish. In the mid 19th Century, varying economic and political changes caused an influx of Corsicans to immigrate to Puerto Rico. Later influences might have varied, but Puerto Rico has a much stronger U.S. influence and the Dominican Republic with neighboring Haiti.

In actuality mofongo is a word of African descent. So, here is the million dollar question: Do we really need to know the origin of monfongo? All I want to know is that it is sometimes cooked with bits of bacon, sometimes filled with chicken, shrimp, or even beef and that it is readily available to me for consumption. I would welcome all variations and can’t wait to try mofongo in my upcoming trip to Puerto Rico!

There is something for everyone here to try at Café Con Leche, the menu is very extensive – from great appetizers, sandwiches perfect for sharing, to entrees and salads. They have a full bar and lots of specialty drinks, and the Mojitos are a must.

P.S. We also ordered the Camarones Al Pilon...which is shrimp in a garlic sauce over mashed plaintains, this was featured swimming in a green sauce with lots of good sized shrimp floating about. This was equally as delicious! Stop in and have a taste for yourself.

Café Con Leche
726 Amsterdam Ave., 212-678-7000
424 Amsterdam Ave., 212-595-7000
http://cafeconlechenyc.com/